A Middle Eastern food medley in Old Dubai

‘As you walk the streets if you ever get asked about the origin of falafel, without batting an eyelid say “your country”’ jokes Arva Ahmed. People here could get quite personal about it and a sea of heated arguments could ensue. The entire group breaks into chuckles at Qwaider Al Nabulsi, our very first stop on the Middle Eastern food pilgrimage tour with Frying Pan Adventures.

A couple of us, some explorers from around the globe and some locals, have our first true encounter with the incredible soft, flavourful falafels. I had almost written off falafels as overrated until Arva introduced me to them. An extension of the humble falafel is the Falafel mahshi stuffed with chilli paste called shatta, sumac spice and onions.

We made ourselves comfortable at the wobbly tables outside to make our own flatbread sandwhiches – smash some falafel mahshi with your hand then take a spoonful of hummus with a coriander/parsley/capsicum/lemon sauce called tatbeela add some grilled aubergine and top it up with some toum, roll it up and bite into the goodness. Beware; suddenly Arva’s voice will fade into the background for a few moments.

As far back as UAE’s existence, the shawarma has been an omnipresent part of the culinary landscape. The humble shawarma has survived the cultural tsunami for years. Most shawarma places are around the corner. Now ordering a shawarma takeaway is a bit of an art. While approaching the place, you will hoot twice, long beeps, signalling them to take orders. The waiters race to the beeping cars where takeaway orders are dished out. Now, you don’t care much when you hold up traffic behind you as nothing can come in between you & your shawarma. The Middle Eastern variant places its importance on the meat, which I’m quite happy about. Eaten with pita bread, meat shavings are placed on top of the tahini with pickled cucumbers, turnips and chips.

Then comes a plate full of something that looked like a pizza only here it had a whole chicken piece unlike the scanty chicken pieces thrown in on our regular pizza. I had my eyes fixated trying to get my head around solving the puzzle about how it can be eaten. Arva comes to our rescue, breaks apart the chicken and already has our bread cut like pizza slices. The pizza lookalike is a Musakhan – a Palestinian sumac chicken with onions and olive oil, traditionally prepared during the oil pressing season to check the quality of the olive oil. The musakhan has spoiled me for life. Don’t think I could ever dig into a pizza with the same levels of satisfaction. After all the over indulgence, Arva confirms our fullness levels to 25 percent and we all give out a loud laugh.

No, a Kunafa can never be as fresh as heading to the kitchen to be made right before your eyes, made with kataifi noodle pastry at the base and akkawi cheese on top of a large flat pan. Once on the stove, constantly rotating the pan is critical to ensure it cooks evenly and perfectly, pouring jarfuls of sugar syrup and rose water subsequently, later to be topped with nuts generously. “In the Middle east, nuts are a sign of generosity and used abundantly to make guests feel welcomed’ explains Arva. One bit into the Kunafa, I’m transported to heaven with a well balanced savoury sweet combination. Old Dubai will always be fondly remembered for the Kunafa medley in my mouth.

Arva and her sister, Farida with whom she runs Frying Pan Adventures have grown up in this very neighbourhood much before the swanky, glitzy Downtown Dubai of today while some of the heritage food joints have been there much before both the girls were born. Arva fondly talks about most of them being etched in her childhood food memories and how she left her job as a consultant to come back and start what we today enjoy by exploring, tasting & savouring on the Rigga Streets. Our wanderings lead us to Al Samadi Sweets, piled high with different variety of Baklava. 

As the Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom and saffron is poured into small cups and handed over, we guess the ingredients in the cream we are licking off the plate. After multiple hints, we get an answer which is random to be even considered, SOAP. Well, I learned that soapwart roots could be used in preparation of food as well.  The soapwart cream felt like a spreadable marshmallow, a delicate but unusual delight to savour.

With my tummy reaching alarming levels those jumping jacks were needed to come to my rescue before our next pit stop for the Egyptian feteer. As we cramp in the small open kitchen, the dough is stretched, swirled in the air and slapped on the marble platform (much like the typical Indian Roomali roti preparation). Cheese, vegetable and onion are sprinkled on the dough in copious amounts and then bundled and slid into the hot oven on either of the sides. Hot out of the oven, cut into small bites size cubes to be had with spicy shatta sauce, simple pleasures on a chilly winter evening.

A little part of me was glad that the rich, creamy Syrian pistachio boozah ice cream was slowing coating and cooling the inners my mouth to gently soothe the spicy shatta inflated tastebuds.

After the starter, main course, dessert, desert, starter, desert it was time to eat like a royal Emirati. At Al Tawasol, we got into a tent style eating place for our shared meal of Emirati Chicken Machboos (much like our Kolkatta biryani, light on the masala but flavourful) & Laham Salona (lamb curry with the traditional blend of Emirati spices) served over rice. All this paired with Laban (buttermilk without salt). After much tutoring from Arva, many still struggled to eat with their hands while I happily obliged and tucked in with my fingers.

All my excitement was bundled for the last stop - the Iranian Sweet & Spice Shop, after all Iran is where my roots are. Since we could not go to our last stop to indulge in Iranian fare, Arva introduced us to Makhloot Faloodeh here. Scrapping into the Saffron ice cream with vermicelli coated frozen sugar syrup and rose water warmed the cockles of my heart. It couldn’t end on a better note.

These ‘hole in a wall’ places are the true castles in sand instead of the modern skyscrapers and the fleet of malls in downtown Dubai, a few kilometre away. I bid my farewell, only longing to come back across the creek to indulge in the Iranian fare the next day.

A flowery fairy tale, Kaas

It had to be this year. Each year I would plan to go to Kaas to see the exemplary floral display and then September would stare at me in the eye. This year saw me in a similar situation but I had vowed to go. So there I was, confirming myself for the Jumpstart Outdoors trip.

The day soon arrived, bags packed ready to go road tripping in the Sahyadri for the next two days. The drive was quite comfortable even though it took us 6 hour to reach Satara from Bombay.  We checked in had lunch and were ready to go.

On the way to the Sajjangad fort

The road to Thoseghar falls was flanked by windmill farms, small family homes and cattle grazing merrily.  Just about at the beginning of the Konkan region, the falls show all their majestic might with water falling at a 1000 feet surrounded by lush greens, an incredible pictorial sight. The next was to conquer the mighty Sajjangad fort. For one has to climb a hundred steps to reach the gate of the fort, but once you are at the edge overlooking the valley, you will be amazed to see the landscape that is being painted before your eyes. Well, the day ended with a treat for my sore Bombay eyes.

As the sun looks up early morning

The next morning we headed for the alluring landscapes of Kaas. I must say was indeed happy that everyone in the bus chose to keep their windows open. As the bus started the climb there was a certain nip in the air. The cool misty breeze of the early morning could transport you to a happy place. Along the drive as the sun was rising we took a halt to catch a glimpse.  And what a stunning sight it was. The sun had just started to peek from the corner of the mountain and the village below was covered in mist. I was glad to capture the beautiful moment. Well the morning had indeed started on a happy note. As we drove along the route, we started to catch glimpses of flowers blossom in patches along the way.

And then there was finally the sight of the plateau that guarantees a major adrenalin rush. As you step out of the bus the golden early morning sunlight greets you with warmth hugging arms giving you a glimpse of the flowers indicating the beautiful bounty that lay ahead.

Topli Karvy

A walk along the guided pathways and you are distant enough to explore the bounty to your liking. Open yourself and be receptive to The solitude..The mist in the air..The cool breeze engulfing you and bringing along the flower perfume on the way.. Marvel the sheer beauty of the flowers.. The multiple colors that sooth your eyes and the omnipresent yellow of the sonki flowers along with mauve balsams the flock together.

Greater Cat Ears

Nature has its ways. To make you pause and enlighten you, that everything can be accomplished at a steady pace. The rush and haste that we fill our lives with are indeed not accomplishments, just a way to fill our days.
So every once in a while I let nature do the talking and just be a keen listener.

Few pointers/tips for future planners

      1. The best time period is from 15th – 30th Sept as suggested by a local from Satara who comes each year to the Kaas plateau

      2. The Kaas plateau does have a bounty of flowers but do stop along the way up at multiple locations as you drive towards Kaas plateau. You will be amazed to find rare variety of flowers blossom who are shy at the attention they get at the plateau. You could do this while returning to your hotel

      3.  Do go with a botanist to complete your experience.

      4.  Leave very early at about 5.30 am. As the day proceeds, you will see a surge in the number of people

      5.  Always walk along the marked areas. Do not cross into the fields as you may step and destroy some of the rare ones. Also, there are lots of snakes around this area

      6. The ecosystem around Kaas is fragile. It is our responsibility to protect it for future generations. Lend a helping hand by picking up any plastic bottles and plastic bags that you see along the way and contribute to the Swach Bharat agenda by not littering.

The Caribbean feel,yet still in Australia

Two Feet and a Heartbeat Walking

Some connections are just meant to be. Just like Sydney and me. At the first glance, the city feels like a dynamic, diverse and multicultural potpourri of flavours. But take a closer look and you experience immense calm from the laid back, chilled out vibe of the locals. And so the next morning I lathered on the sunscreen and put on my sunglasses, ready for a couple of hours of bliss by the Bondi beach. But plans have a way of changing themselves, and I ended up walking to witness some of the most breathtaking views. You can see it from my eyes here. The Bronte to Coogee coastal walk route.

1. A walk characterized by the towering limestone cliffs

To marvel at the beauty crafted by nature

2. Scan the Ocean to my heart’s content

As far and wide as my eyes could take me

 

3. Crisp air to accompany me

where the smell of the water is in the air, the taste of it in my mouth and the mist that kisses my cheeks from the breeze flowing over the ocean waters

4. Mesmerizing Brilliant Blue Skies

 sketched with cute cotton candy looking clouds

5. The charming blue-and-yellow Macaws

 with their playful demeanor 

6. Catching up with life

Amid the vast mighty ocean, with not another soul in sight

7. Stop for a swim by the ocean

in the most idyllic infinity pool settings

8.  Catch a glimpse of a graffiti artist at work

 9. A treasure, the Waverley Cemetery

10. Pure natural surroundings

That heal you, both physically and mentally

10. Read a book at the island beach

which is secluded by the deeply incised gully and sheer sandstone rocks on either sides

11. Discover exotic and native plant species

like the bottle brush tree, an Australian beauty

12. Catch a glimpse of the full moon over the ocean
at the end of your walk

Tip: As Roberto Bolano says " Every few hundred feet the world changes",  so stay at multiple places across Sydney like the CBD, Eastern suburbs, Northern suburbs and the Blue Mountains. 

*This trip was sponsored by Tourism Australia